How did Green Boots die? This question haunts many who learn
about the grim landmark on Mount Everest's Northeast Ridge route. Approximately
27,900 feet above sea level lies the body of an unidentified climber, nicknamed
"Green Boots" for his distinctive mountaineering footwear, who
perished in the mountain's unforgiving terrain.
We often associate Green Boots on Mount Everest with Tsewang
Paljor, an Indian climber who tragically lost his life during the devastating
blizzard of May 10, 1996. Born in a small village called Sakti, Paljor was part
of an Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition attempting the first Indian ascent
from the eastern flank. However, the question of who is Green Boots remains not
entirely settled. In fact, his body has become just one of around 200 mount
Everest bodies that remain on the slopes, serving as sobering waypoints for
those attempting to conquer the world's highest peak. The presence of these
fallen climbers highlights the extreme dangers of the "death zone"
above 8,000 meters, where oxygen is scarce and survival becomes a
minute-by-minute struggle.
The Story Behind Green Boots on Mount Everest
The 1996 Everest disaster
The tragic story of Green Boots begins with one of
mountaineering's darkest chapters. May 10-11, 1996 marked a devastating period
when a sudden, fierce blizzard engulfed Mount Everest, claiming eight climbers'
lives in a single day. This catastrophe would later be immortalized as the
"1996 Everest disaster."
Among those caught in this lethal storm were three members
of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) expedition from India: Subedar Tsewang
Smanla, Lance Naik Dorje Morup, and Head Constable Tsewang Paljor. The team was
attempting to become the first Indians to summit Everest from its treacherous
eastern flank.
At approximately 15:45 Nepal Time, the three radioed their
expedition leader claiming they had reached the summit, though evidence
suggests they might have been 430 feet short due to poor visibility. Shortly
afterward, the deadly blizzard struck, bringing extreme cold, powerful winds,
and near-zero visibility. Their teammates below spotted two headlamps moving
slightly above the Second Step at 8,570 meters, but none of the three ever
returned to their high camp.
Discovery of the body in Green Boots Cave
After the disaster, a body was discovered in a small
limestone alcove along the Northeast Ridge route at approximately 8,500 meters
(27,890 feet) above sea level. The location, within the notorious "death
zone" where oxygen is dangerously scarce, would eventually become known as
"Green Boots Cave".
The deceased climber was found in a curled, protective
position, as if trying to shield himself from the brutal mountain elements. The
cave where he sought his final refuge is littered with discarded oxygen
bottles, a grim testament to countless climbers who passed through this
challenging section.
Over time, as other expeditions traversed this route, the
body became increasingly visible and recognizable to climbers making their way
to the summit. The unmistakable figure, frozen in time, serves as a somber
reminder of Everest's unforgiving nature.
Why the name 'Green Boots' stuck?
The nickname "Green Boots" originated simply yet
memorably from the bright neon green Koflach mountaineering boots still visible
on the climber's feet. These distinctive boots protruded from the small cave,
making them unmistakable to passing mountaineers.
Subsequently, the body became a macabre yet practical
landmark for climbers ascending via the Northeast Ridge route. Mountaineers
would recognize this point as a significant marker of their progress—indicating
they had reached approximately 27,890 feet and were approaching the final
challenging sections before the summit.
As years passed, "Green Boots" became common terminology among the climbing community. For decades, virtually every expedition attempting the Northeast route would encounter this grim waypoint, with climbers sometimes even having to step over the body's legs to continue their ascent. The cave itself transformed into an unofficial landmark known universally as "Green Boots Cave" – a chilling reminder of the extreme risks faced by those who dare to challenge the world's highest peak.
Who Was Green Boots? The Identity Debate
Despite his notoriety as Everest's most recognized landmark
body, the true identity of Green Boots remains a subject of ongoing debate
within the mountaineering community.
Tsewang Paljor: The widely accepted theory
The most prevalent theory identifies Green Boots as Tsewang
Paljor, a head constable with the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. Born on April 10,
1968, in Sakti village in Ladakh, India, Paljor was just 28 years old when he
perished on Everest. His mountaineering background made him an ideal candidate
for the 1996 expedition. Notably, Paljor was handpicked for the summit attempt
because of his exceptional climbing skills and experience. His teammates often
described him as "looking like a monkey when he climbed,"
highlighting his natural ability on the mountain. Additionally, he was known
for his enthusiasm, helpful nature, and love for roast chicken.
Dorje Morup: An alternative possibility
Conversely, a compelling alternative theory first appeared
in a 1997 Himalayan Journal article by P.M. Das titled "The Indian Ascent
of Qomolungma by the North Ridge." Das presented evidence suggesting the
body belonged to Lance Naik Dorje Morup, another member of the same expedition.
According to this account, Morup was spotted between the First and Second Steps
showing signs of severe frostbite and struggling with his equipment.
Furthermore, Das reported that Morup's body was found "lying under the
shelter of a boulder near their line of descent, close to Camp 6" with his
rucksack nearby—a description matching Green Boots' location.
Eyewitness accounts and expedition records
Eyewitness testimonies complicate the identity question.
Japanese climbers on Everest during the same period encountered an Indian
climber (believed to be Morup) between the First and Second Steps who "had
refused to put on gloves over his frost-bitten hands" and was
"finding difficulty in unclipping his safety carabiner at anchor
points." Meanwhile, Singh, the expedition leader, maintained radio contact
with Paljor on May 10, with the last communication occurring at approximately
17:35 when the team claimed to have reached the summit. Essentially, these
conflicting accounts make it difficult to determine which climber ended up in
the cave.
Why the identity remains unconfirmed?
The identity remains unconfirmed primarily because of the extreme difficulty in conducting proper identification at such altitudes. The harsh environment of the death zone prevents detailed examination, while conflicting reports from survivors create additional uncertainty. Moreover, both Paljor and Morup were wearing similar gear, including green boots. Without DNA testing—virtually impossible given the location—the debate continues. Although many sources confidently identify Green Boots as Paljor, the mountaineering community acknowledges the possibility that Morup's body might be the one that became the infamous landmark.
Green Boots as a Landmark and Symbol
Location of Green Boots Cave
The infamous Green Boots Cave sits at a staggering altitude
of 27,890 feet (8,500 meters) on Mount Everest's Northeast Ridge route.
Positioned approximately 350 meters below the summit and beneath the First
Step, this limestone alcove has become one of the mountain's most recognizable
locations. Situated firmly within the "Death Zone" – where oxygen
levels plummet dangerously low – the cave contains discarded oxygen bottles
from countless expeditions. This natural shelter became the final resting place
for the climber whose bright green boots would transform into an unintended yet
prominent landmark.
How climbers used the body as a marker
For decades, nearly every expedition attempting the
Northeast route encountered Green Boots, with approximately 80% of climbers
stopping to rest at this macabre waypoint. As veteran climber Noel Hanna noted,
"It's hard to miss the person lying there". Climbers often paused at
the cave to adjust their oxygen supplies or briefly recover before continuing
their ascent. Many literally stepped over his outstretched legs during their
summit push, using his location to gage their progress. The distinctive neon
green boots served as a visual confirmation that climbers had reached about
8,500 meters and were approaching the final challenging sections.
Impact on climbers and public perception
Encountering Green Boots evoked conflicting emotions in
passing mountaineers. Many described feeling both motivated to reach the summit
yet chilled by this stark reminder of human fragility. The sight forced
climbers to confront the harsh realities of Everest's Death Zone – where
survival becomes increasingly uncertain. Consequently, Green Boots sparked
intense ethical debates within the mountaineering community regarding the
propriety of leaving bodies exposed versus the dangers of retrieval.
Mount Everest bodies as waypoints
Green Boots represents just one of approximately 200 bodies that remained on Everest by the early 21st century. Other fallen climbers likewise earned nicknames and became unofficial landmarks, including "Sleeping Beauty" (Francys Arsentiev), bodies in "Rainbow Valley" (named for colorful climbing gear), and "the German Woman" (Hannelore Schmatz). These grim markers function as both navigational aids and solemn warnings about the mountain's dangers. Given the extreme conditions, standard protocol typically leaves the deceased where they perished, creating what some climbers describe as high-altitude "guideposts".
The Ethics of Leaving Bodies on Everest
The presence of approximately 200 bodies on Mount Everest
raises profound ethical questions about mortality, respect, and the limits of
human intervention in extreme environments.
Why bodies are not recovered?
Beyond the physical impossibility, standard protocol on
Everest often dictates leaving the deceased where they perished. In many cases,
bodies become frozen into the mountainside, making them part of the terrain
itself. Oftentimes, climbers explicitly request to remain on the mountain
should they perish—a sentiment mountaineer Alan Arnette compared to "a
captain going down with his ship". As a result, deceased climbers become
eternal fixtures on Everest's slopes, simultaneously serving as warnings and
waypoints for future expeditions.
Cost and risk of retrieval
The financial burden of body recovery is staggering, ranging
from $30,000 to $70,000 per retrieval. In extreme cases, costs can exceed
$100,000. Nevertheless, the monetary expense pales in comparison to the human
risk—in 1984, two Nepalese climbers died while attempting to recover Hannelore
Schmatz's body. Each recovery requires 6-10 Sherpas working nearly a full day
in the death zone, where oxygen levels are only one-third those at sea level.
Given that climbers shouldn't spend more than 48 hours in this zone, time
constraints further complicate these perilous missions.
Cultural views on final resting places
Curiously, differing cultural perspectives create tension
around body management. Nepalese Sherpas generally consider it disrespectful to
their mountain gods to leave bodies on Everest. Nonetheless, some climbing
families specifically request that their loved ones remain where they fell,
honoring the climbers' final wishes. This ethical conflict surfaced
dramatically in 2010 when a Nepalese recovery mission was halted after families
intervened to keep the bodies in place. Similarly, plans to scatter Sir Edmund
Hillary's ashes on the summit were rejected by local lamas who considered it
disrespectful.
Comparison with Sleeping Beauty and Rainbow Valley
Unlike Green Boots, some bodies have been relocated through
extraordinary efforts. Francys Arsentiev, nicknamed "Sleeping
Beauty," remained visible on Everest until 2007, when the "Tao of
Everest Campaign" moved her to a less visible location. Her body was
wrapped in an American flag and accompanied by a note from her son. Equally
sobering is "Rainbow Valley," named for the colorful climbing gear
adorning deceased climbers. These different treatments reflect evolving attitudes
toward Everest's fallen, balancing respect for the dead against the mountain's
unforgiving reality.
Conclusion
The Legacy of Green Boots
Green Boots remains one of Everest's most haunting reminders
of the mountain's deadly power. Whether the body belongs to Tsewang Paljor or
Dorje Morup, this fallen climber has transcended his identity to become
something more significant—a symbol of both human ambition and mortality [43].
Though his body disappeared from view in 2014, presumably
moved or covered by other climbers, Green Boots' legacy continues [44]. His
story serves as a stark reminder that conquering Everest demands not just skill
and determination but also respect for the mountain's unforgiving nature.
Additionally, the ethical questions surrounding his remains echo throughout the
mountaineering community, challenging us to consider how we honor those who
never returned from their summit attempts [45].
Last but certainly not least, Green Boots forces us to
confront uncomfortable truths about risk, death, and the extreme environments
humans willingly enter. Many climbers who passed his frozen form undoubtedly
asked themselves: "Is reaching the summit worth this potential fate?"
[46]
The death zone shows no favoritism. Everyone who enters its
realm faces the same brutal conditions regardless of experience or preparation.
Mountaineers acknowledge this reality while still pursuing their dreams of
standing atop the world's highest peak [47].
Some might view Green Boots' story as merely tragic.
However, experienced climbers understand his presence represents something
deeper—a testament to human spirit and the price sometimes paid for pursuing
extraordinary achievements [48]. Those neon green mountaineering boots, once
simply equipment for an ambitious expedition, transformed into an enduring
symbol of Everest's dangers and allure.
Death on Everest carries a certain paradox. The mountain
simultaneously takes lives yet preserves bodies as eternal monuments to human
courage. Green Boots exemplifies this contradiction perfectly, having become
perhaps the most famous deceased climber on Earth while remaining technically
unidentified [49].
Ultimately, whoever rests in Green Boots Cave reminds us
that mountains demand respect. Their beauty comes with inherent danger, their
conquest with potential sacrifice. Nevertheless, climbers continue ascending
past fallen predecessors, driven by that undeniable human urge to reach the
highest places on Earth—no matter the risk [50].
FAQs
Who is believed to be the climber known as "Green Boots" on Mount Everest?
While the identity remains unconfirmed, the most
widely accepted theory is that "Green Boots" was Tsewang Paljor, an
Indian climber who died during the 1996 Everest disaster. However, some
evidence suggests it could be another climber, Dorje Morup, from the same
expedition.
Why did the body become known as "Green Boots"?
The nickname "Green Boots" originated from the bright
neon green Koflach mountaineering boots visible on the deceased climber's feet.
These distinctive boots, protruding from a small cave, became an unmistakable
landmark for other mountaineers ascending the Northeast Ridge route.
How did climbers use "Green Boots" as a marker?
Climbers on the Northeast Ridge route used the body as a waypoint to
gage their progress. Its location at approximately 27,890 feet (8,500 meters)
indicated that they were approaching the final challenging sections before the
summit. Many climbers would pause at the cave to rest or adjust their oxygen
supplies.
Why aren't bodies like "Green Boots" removed from Mount Everest?
Bodies are often left on Everest due to the extreme difficulty, high cost, and significant risks associated with recovery efforts. The altitude and harsh conditions in the "death zone" make retrieval operations extremely dangerous. Additionally, some climbers explicitly request to remain on the mountain if they perish.
What happened to the "Green Boots" body in recent years?
In 2014, the body was reported missing from its usual location, leading to speculation that it had been moved or covered. Some climbers later reported that the body was visible again in 2017, covered with rocks. The exact current status and location of "Green Boots" remain uncertain.