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Baruntse Expedition- 45 Days

Duration

45 Days

Trip Starts/Ends

Kathmandu

Max Altitude

7129m/23389ft

Trip Code

ANT01EN2
1 Pax 2-5 Pax 6+ Pax
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Trip Overview

While most of us dream to be a mountaineer and climb the Himalayas, very few get the opportunity and act on it for the sheer challenge, great risks, and fear of failure. Baruntse Expedition gives you this once in a lifetime opportunity to take on a challenge that will test your grit while you venture on a worthwhile trip to the Himalayas. With a height of 7129m, it is a climbers dream, standing tall amongst Lhotse and Makalu Himal. 

We initiate the expedition after our arrival in Kathmandu. A proper mountaineering expedition this, preparations for the climb will be carried out for the next 3 days. It includes getting your trekker permit and trekker information management system card. Finally, we set sails for our journey to Mount Baruntse catching a flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar. Trekking up along one of the deepest valleys in Nepal, we venture along beautiful settlements of Sherpa and Gurung folks as we cross the villages of Num, Seduwa and Tashi Gaon. From here, the Baruntse Expedition takes a grueling form as we ascend rocky valleys and passes namely Keke La (4127m) and Shipton La (4170m) among others. Finally, near the foothills of our challenge, we arrive at Hillary Base Camp and then onto Makalu Base camp. Arriving at the Baruntse base camp, we commit to scaling Mount Baruntse as we start for higher camp, Camp I and II.  Camp I (5700m) is below the East Col and Camp II (6420m) on the South East Ridge. The moment we reach the summit, views of surrounding peaks including the Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu topped up by the jubilant feeling of having scaled a mountain will be an overwhelming experience. After recording this triumph in our memories and cameras we head back to the Base Camp and then trace our way back to Kathmandu. April to May and October to November is the best time to take on this expedition.

Amazing Nepal Trek and Expedition is a Trekking and Expedition Operator registered with Nepal Tourism Board and Tourism Authority-Government of Nepal. We offer a range of expedition and adventure packages to cater to our clients. Our team of highly skilled and experienced professionals provides world-class services to ensure a safe and memorable experience. An enchanting experience of the hidden treasures of this beautiful country awaits. 

Additional Information

We tried to attempt as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please send us an email on the following: info@amazingnepaltrek.com . If you want to talk to us directly feel free to call us at: +977-9851116042

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Before Travel Trek Safety Things To Be Considered

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
Day 02-04: Expedition Preparation 
Day 05: Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar|410m, Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 06: Trek to Mane Bhanjyang|1100m, Overnight at Tented camp. 4-5 hrs
Day 07: Trek to Chichila|1980m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 08: Trek to Num|1560m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 09: Trek to Seduwa|1500m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 10: Trek to Tashi Gaon|2070m, Overnight at Tented camp. 4-5 hrs
Day 11: Trek to Kauma|3560m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 12: Trek to Dobato, Overnight at Tented camp. 7-8 hrs
Day 13: Trek to Jark Kharka, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Hillary Basecamp, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Day 15: Trek to Makalu base camp, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 16: Trek to Baruntse base camp, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Day 17-35: Climbing period, Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 36: Trek to Yak Kharka, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Day 37: Trek to Mumbuk, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Day 38: Trek to Tashi Gaon, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Day 39: Trek to Num, Overnight at Tented camp. 4-5 hrs
Day 40: Trek to Chichila, Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 41: Trek to Tumlingtar, Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 42: Fly back to Kathmandu, Overnight at Hotel.
Day 43-44: Free day in Kathmandu, Overnight at Hotel.
Day 45: Final departure

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
Welcome to the land of Himalayas. An Amazing Nepal Trek and Expedition staff will receive you at the Tribhuvan International Airport and make arrangements for our transfer to the trip Hotel. A welcome program in the evening is accompanied by a briefing on the expedition outlines. Overnight stay at a hotel in Kathmandu.   

Day 02-04: Expedition Preparation 
For the next 3 days, we prepare for our expedition. The expedition organizer will arrange for your trekking gears and equipment. A briefing shall be provided on the climbing techniques with a preparation session. A guide will accompany you to the UNESCO World Heritage sites including (Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath) Temples, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. On the final preparation day, we will visit the Ministry of Tourism, responsible for regulating mountaineering expeditions, where we shall be briefed on the guidelines. Overnight stays at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 05: Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar|410m, Overnight at Tented camp.
We start our journey into the remote regions as we catch a flight heading for Tumlingtar. Enjoy this 40 min flight as we take off from Kathmandu with a view of this capital city, confined within hills surrounding the valley. Arriving at Tumlingtar airport, which sits pretty beside the Arun River, we can view the Mount Makalu (8463m), Tutse (6524m), and Chamlang (7321m) straight ahead.  Overnight stay at Tumlingtar. 

Day 06: Trek to Mane Bhanjyang|1100m, Overnight at Tented camp. 4-5 hrs
We initiate our trek on this day headed for Mane Bhanjyang via Khandbari. Starting the trek along a road, we turn onto a track taking us uphill past traditional lodges and farmed vegetation. After almost 11km of trail and treading it for more than two hours we’ll reach Khandbari. Heading up the ridge to the North, after a steady 30min walk we will arrive in Mane Bhanjyang village. Overnight stay at Mane Bhanjyang.  

Day 07: Trek to Chichila|1980m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Starting along the hillside with an option of taking the road, we hike through the terraced fields and picturesque landscape. We arrive at Sekaha which is a small settlement of Gurung Community. Further along the bamboo grooves, we arrive at Bhotebas while being greeted by the prayer flags as we continue further. It will be two more hours before we arrive at our stop for the day Chichila. Overnight stay at Chichila. 

Day 08: Trek to Num|1560m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
We leave Chichila early in the morning accompanied by the breathtaking views of Mount Makalu (8463m) and Chamlang (7321m). Starting our ascent, we pass through the village of Baisake and Kuwapani along with Matsyapokhari as well as Deurali Bhanjyang as we head northeast to the village of Num. It will be a 6-hour trek to Num. Overnight stay at Num.

Day 09: Trek to Seduwa|1500m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Waking up in the lush greens of rural Nepal, you set out for the village of Seduwa. Descending from Num you set out on a steep trail to Lumbang along grooves of oak trees before crossing the Arun Koshi river on a suspension bridge. From here, the trail climbs steeply to Seduwa. Heading onto Seduwa we are greeted by a board welcoming us to the Makalu Barun National Park. Overnight stay at Seduwa.  

Day 10: Trek to Tashi Gaon|2070m, Overnight at Tented camp. 4-5 hrs
The trail along Isuwa Khola and Kusuwa Khola will lead us to a village. As we cross the Isuwa Khola on a wooden bridge, we continue along a lush green forest. Finally, crossing another bridge we’ll arrive at Tashi Gaon. A Sherpa village this, enjoy the local delicacies as you spend your night among the folks of the Himalayas. Overnight stay at Tashi Gaon.

Day 11: Trek to Kauma|3560m, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
This will be a challenging day of the trek as you aim to gain more than 1500m in elevation and head for Kauma. The trail gets challenging as you climb up steeply passing by the stone masonry houses in Danda Kharka. Ascending along the stone steps we head for the top of the ridge before descending and arriving at Kauma. Overnight stay at Kauma.   

Day 12: Trek to Dobato, Overnight at Tented camp. 7-8 hrs
A challenging and exciting day, we’ll be climbing a steep terrain to some of the famous passes in this region namely Kauma La (3600m), Keke La (4127m), Shipton La (4170m), and Tutu La (4080m) before descending to Dobato. As we hit the steep trails early in the morning we hike uphill through the rhododendron forest to the Kauma La pass followed by Keke La Pass, and finally Shipton La pass. The trail then drops steeply to Dobato. Overnight stay at Dobato.

Day 13: Trek to Jark Kharka, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
With a clear view of the mountains, you start the trek. Descending downhill, you cross the rhododendron forest onto a trail along the Barun River. Taking this trail, we head upstream to Jark Kharka while crossing boulders and fissures. Venturing along the foothills of huge cliffs you arrive at Jark Kharka with a single lodge. Overnight stay at Jark Kharka.

Day 14: Trek to Hillary Basecamp, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
A short climb to Merek is followed by another to the Hillary Base Camp. Resting for a while in Merek, you venture into the arid barren lands with a hint of snow covering the landscape. The trail is fairly challenging and sometimes steep. Surrounded by peaks, most scaling above 6000m, the base camp sits pretty by the glacial moraines near the south face of Mount Makalu (8463m). Overnight stay at Hillary Base Camp.

Day 15: Trek to Makalu base camp, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Setting out for the Makalu base camp (4870m), aka the Lower Basecamp, head east as you follow a decent trail along the Barun Glacial Moraine. As you arrive at the Makalu Base Camp, enjoy the incredible views of surrounding mountains, glaciers and lakes. We can venture to the Barun Pokhari which is a slight uphill climb. Overnight stay at Makalu Base Camp.

Day 16: Trek to Baruntse base camp, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Today, you reach the foot of Mount Baruntse as you take on the terrain over a broad crevasse covered with boulders. This makes today's trek slightly challenging. Climbing along the rocky terrain, you'll feel the air thinning and the climb gets tough. Once you cross the Peak 41 (6648m) and Hunku (6833m) you’ll notice the Baruntse base camp (5450m) to your left. Overnight stay at Baruntse Base Camp.

Day 17-35: Climbing period, Overnight at Tented camp.
Base Camp (5450m) Located in a vast valley over the moraine of Hunku glacier, the base camp will be your camp site for the upcoming days. The base camp is by a beautiful lake. Heading towards the West Col you’ll need climbing aids and lines fixed by Sherpa guide to overcome the ice cliff. 

Camp 0 (6000m) Having met your expedition leader along with the group of Sherpa who will lead you to the summit, you’ll spend a few days here while returning back to the Base Camp (5450m) on occasions. Use this time to acclimatize and practice your rope skills. Depending on the weather condition your team leader will formulate a plan for the summit.

Camp 1 (5700m): After you overcome the ice cliffs of West Col you’ll arrive at the glacial plateau which is Camp 1. While the Sherpa team fixes ropes along the slightly elevated southeast ridge of the Mountain, we will be climbing the ridge after them. Camp 1 is at an altitude of 5700m and as we reach a small Col on the ridge proper the climb goes steeply at an angle of 45°.

Camp 2 (6420m) Beyond Camp 2, you take on a short climb steep at 45° onto an ice wall. This at 6500m where you’ll tread steps formed of ice along with granite outcrops which leads to the major test of the day as ice ledges appear. As you overcome this, crossing the 7000m mark, all which is left to conquer is the ridge to the summit. Once at the summit, enjoy the triumph with an awe-inspiring view of the Mt. Everest (8848m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Makalu (8463m), Lhotse (8414m) among others. 

Carefully descending down the same path with the help of fixed lines, you head back to Camp 2. The overall journey from Camp 2 to Summit and back will be around 10 hours. Stay at tented camp for the entire climbing period.

Day 36: Trek to Yak Kharka, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Having completed the expedition of Baruntse and clearing up the base camp, we set out for Yak Kharka. We pass by the Makalu Base camp on our way. Trekking down we pass Shershon and reach Yak Kharka, we’ll be back amongst the civilization. We can observe the vegetation starting to reappear having spent the best part of 3 weeks in the Himalayas. Overnight stay at Yak Kharka.

Day 37: Trek to Mumbuk, Overnight at Tented camp. 5-6 hrs
Trekking further down, we head towards Mumbuk on this day. After heading down the rocky terrain we’ll be back amongst the lush greens as we traverse through the alpine forest descending along the Barun Valley. After a couple of hours of downhill trek, we end up crossing the Barun river and then onto Mumbuk. This quaint settlement in the midst of lush green hills offers breathtaking views of the Barun Valley. Overnight stay at Mumbuk.

Day 38: Trek to Tashi Gaon, Overnight at Tented camp. 6-7 hrs
Leaving Mumbuk, we set out for a long day of descent to Tashi Gaon. Having taken on the treacherous hike up to the passes, we take an alternative route that takes us by the Kauma Danda. The descent gets steeper after Kauma as we cut through hillside onto lush green forests as we finally enter Tashi Gaon. Enjoy the last night at this beautiful Sherpa village. Overnight stay at Tashi Gaon.

Day 39: Trek to Num, Overnight at Tented camp. 4-5 hrs
Descending further we head back to Num via Seduwa today. The trek starts with a tedious descent downhill before we cross the Isuwa Khola on a wooden bridge. Seduwa is our next stop and as we cross it we head on a steep trail further downhill along the Arun valley exiting the Makalu Barun National Park. Arriving at a suspension bridge we cross the Arun Koshi river and climb along lush green forest to Num village. Overnight stay at Num.

Day 40: Trek to Chichila, Overnight at Tented camp.
Tracing our trail back, we head southwest to Chichila. First, we climb along narrow steps leading us to Mure after which we descend to the village of Kuwapani. Further, we hike up the trail as we cross Deurali Bhanjyang and descend to the village of Baisake before we arrive in Chichila. Overnight stay at Chichila.

Day 41: Trek to Tumlingtar, Overnight at Tented camp.
We can either hike to Tumlingtar or catch a jeep. The roads have been fairly built and this would be a comfortable way to end your trek. Trekking back is still on the cards as you head downhill with a perfect view of the Arun Valley. Crossing Mane Bhanjyang and Khandbari on the way, we finally arrive at Tumlingtar having traversed a trail along farmlands and forests. Overnight stay at Tumlingtar.

Day 42: Fly back to Kathmandu, Overnight at Hotel.
The final day of your expedition in remote Nepal, we'll catch a flight back to Kathmandu. Enjoy the views of the fascinating hilly terrain as you bid farewell to this region. Once in Kathmandu, and transferred to the hotel, enjoy the evening at your trip hotel. Treat yourself with a filling dinner as you venture out to celebrate your expedition. Overnight stay at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 43-44: Free day in Kathmandu, Overnight at Hotel.
The next couple of days will be free days for you to explore the Kathmandu Valley. Places of interest include the UNESCO World Heritage sites. You can also visit the tourist market in Thamel and get souvenirs for your loved ones. You can venture out to Nagarkot, a town Northeast of Kathmandu, for an exciting view of the Sunrise over the hills and views of Ganesh Himal among others. 

On the final day, you are invited to a farewell dinner at a traditional Nepali restaurant where we shall share Mementos including those from the trip. Later in the evening, you can venture out into the Thamel market to experience the minimal nightlife Kathmandu has to offer. Overnight stays at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 45: Final departure
The final day of your trip, as the expedition comes to an end; one of our agents will see you off at the airport depending on your scheduled departure. Enjoy the lounge at the airport and make plans for the next trip back as you wait for your flight.
 

Service Includes:

  • Arrival airport pick and drop off
  • 4 Nights at ★★★ hotel in Kathmandu.
  • Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu airfare as per the expedition itinerary.
  • Baruntse summiteers climbing Sherpa (01 Sherpa: 02 climbers ratio)
  • Group climbing gears like rope, ice bar etc for the Baruntse expedition.
  • Baruntse expedition peak climbing permit and all government taxes.
  • National part and conservation permit fee for the expedition.
  • Full board high altitude meal while trekking to base camp and climbing Baruntse
  • Liaison officer with all his expenses while on Baruntse climbing expedition.
  • Expedition manager, Expedition cook, support crew and porters with their equipment, daily wages, food, insurance etc.
  • All camping gear including base camp tents, dining tent with table and chair, kitchen and toilet tent etc
  • Mountain Hardware high altitude tents while climbing the Baruntse expedition
  • Emergency Oxygen with regulator and mask while on Baruntse expedition.
  • EPI gas and burner for high climb.
  • Gamow bag / Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC)
  • All necessary climbing hardware group equipment
  • Satellite Phone and Walkie-Talkie in case of emergency.
  • An arrangement of Rescue/Medical Helicopter service; covered by your Insurance agency

Service Excludes:

  • Visa & Processing Fee
  • International flight fares
  • Meals other than during the expedition and dinners in Kathmandu
  • Mineral water and refreshments during the trek
  • Personal gears and equipment
  • Travel insurance (Cover Helicopter evacuation and Trip Cancellation charges)
  • Guide/Porter Tipping
  • Anything not mentioned in 'Service Includes' section are your personal expenses

All prices are in US dollars and do not include international airfare, unless otherwise noted.
Every Day Departure
We can depart our trip every day(Nepal Packages). You Can Schedule your own departure date and contact us. We will make your Itinerary as your convenient.

Accommodations and Meals:

During our trip, we can enjoy Nepali, Tibetan, and Indian as well as the more common continental cuisines. Breakfast (only) will be provided during our stay in Kathmandu whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) will be available during the trek and climb. While trekking, breakfast will be taken in the same place we stay the night. Similar arrangements can also be made for dinner. Lunch will be taken en route to the next destination. During climbing sessions, hygienic, freshly-cooked food will be provided. There will also be welcome and farewell dinners in Kathmandu.

Briefing of the Tour:

You will be briefed about the trek, you will be given information file, and importantly introduced with your guide.

Service and Security:

A professional, English speaking trekking guide and assistant guide for every 4 members, and 1 porter for every two trekkers will be provided to your group during the trek.

Similarly, a licensed and professional English speaking climbing guide will be provided for your climbing of the peak. We provide 1 main guide and 1 assistant guide for a group of 2-4 people. But for a group of more than 5-8 people, we provide 01 main and 2 assistant guides. For the group having 9+ people, 1 main guide and 3 assistant guides will be provided. Other staff members we provide include 01 experienced cook, Sherpas, and assistants.

Our professional staffs will take care of you. Please keep on informing about each and every change that you might feel as you set out for the magnificent journey. Do not feel shy, because the very nature of this trekking and climbing makes one nervous. Our staffs will be there to help you overcome such state of nervousness.

Certificate:

After the trek is over, you will be provided with ANTE adventure certificate.

Size of Group:

Trekking Group Size of our group can range from two people to ten people. In case you want to travel alone, do not hesitate to write to us. We will plan accordingly. In case, you more than ten people, please do let us know so that we can develop and improvise plans and itinerary.

Acclimatization:

Climbing Mt. Baruntse is as much difficult as it is technical. We give special priority to its technical sides as well. For this, we have designed an itinerary to allow you get acclimatize naturally. We know the particular location you need to stay for rest, and the particular distance you need to walk slowly and so on. In case you get high altitude sickness, we have crews who know how to deal it effectively and smartly.

How to respond to Altitude Sickness?

  • Please do carry Diamox (Acetazolamide)
  • Please consult your physician
  • Please do keep on informing our crews if you feel uneasy
  • Please do walk in the group so that you can help each other

Travel Insurance:

We would like to recommend you to get your trekking insured. Since you are trekking in probably one of the wildest and challenging routes, you need to be cautious of anything inevitable. You may need helicopter evacuation and get your trip canceled. You may get injured and get your baggage theft and so on.

Permits and fees:

The government local body charges some small amount of fee for every you make to the World Heritage sites, National Park, restricted areas along climbing. The price we charge includes all the fees.

Flight Delay in Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu
Twin Otter and Dornier is the primary mode of transport to and from the airstrip at Tumlingtar. This service is fairly dependable. Sometimes, flights (to and from Tumlingtar) may be canceled due to mountain weather conditions or technical problems. In such case, Amazing Nepal will charter a helicopter to ensure you are on schedule for your international flight. The helicopter can fly if the visibility is 1500m, while the twin otter can fly if the visibility is 5000m, as per Nepal’s Civil Aviation rules.

The cost of the helicopter is payable directly to our Kathmandu office in the event that this service is utilized. US cash, traveler’s cheques, or credit cards (Visa Cards, Master Cards only) are accepted. You will be given a receipt upon payment so that you may claim the amount from your travel insurance. The minimum cost will be US$500 and maximum US$3500 depending on the number of group members.

It is recommended that you should arrive in Kathmandu a day earlier before you start your trek. When you arrive a day earlier, you will have time to rest as well as time to buy trekking equipment. Similarly, it is best to have some extra days after you have finished your trek because your flight to Kathmandu/Tumlingtar might be canceled due to bad weather. So all together it is recommended to have a few extra days beside the trip schedule so that you don’t miss your International Flight.

If you want to book a Baruntse Expedition with Amazing Nepal Trek and Expedition and still wondering about the essential equipment for your Expedition Campaign, here we are more than happy to offer our checklist for your references. Please make necessary amendments to our checklist as per your need and convenience. For some case, if you couldn’t get any of these listed equipment/gears in your hometown or you’re in a rush before you fly to Kathmandu, don’t worry! The listed necessary items mentioned below can be easily purchased here.
Except for your daypack, the porters and yaks carry all your heavy gears and luggage. While Trekking from Lukla, you can wear a T-Shirt and trousers. You will need your down jacket around base camp until the sun hits camp after breakfast. Above the Base Camp, carry also ice axe, crampons, sleeping bag, snacks in your rucksack. The Sherpas will carry other heavy items and gears in the mountain. 

Below is the checklist of equipment that is required for the trek/climb:

Climbing Gear
Ice Axe:
A 60 cm length is probably the most useful length. Bring a lightweight axe with a pick that will stick easily in hard glacier ice (for example the Petzl Sum-Tec Mountaineering Ice Axe). Attach a lightweight wrist leash that is usable for climbing steeper terrain. The summit day is a consistent 40 degrees, so a shorter axe is necessary.
12-point Crampons: These must be sharp and must fit your boot perfectly.
Climbing Harness: Make sure the buckle is easy for you to thread in cold conditions! Gear loops will be useful for this trip as well as adjustable leg loops.
Climbing Helmet: Required. Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath.
Hardware: Bring 3 locking and 4 lightweight regular carabiners. It is helpful if at least one of the locking carabiners has a "key gate", like the Petzl Attache. Bring one handled ascender, and one Petzl Tibloc for ascending the fixed rope. You will need rigging material — two sewn 48" nylon slings and 10' of 8 mm perlon should be sufficient. Also include one small 5 mm prussik loop (about 4 feet of cord tied with a double fisherman's knot) for a rappel backup. For rappelling the Black Diamond ATC Guide is good since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. A Figure 8 is an old standby and works on a variety of ropes and also icy ropes. While it twists the ropes more, it is quite foolproof. You might consider both, in case you drop one of them and lose it. 

Backpack & Sleeping Bag
Climbing Backpack:
Medium size internal frame pack (60-liter capacity). Look for a pack which is comfortable to carry, very durable, as light as is reasonable and one which has a minimum number of bells and whistles.
Sleeping Bag: Bring a sleeping bag comfortable to -20°F. Down is lighter and much more compressible. Be sure to bring a compression stuff sack. Keep in mind that many of your nights will be much warmer than -20, especially on the trek in to base camp.
Sleeping Pads: Bring one RidgeRest or Thermarest pad. A stuff sack helps prevent punctures. 

Camp Accessories
Headlamp: Bring a good LED headlamp with 2 sets of lithium batteries for cold conditions. I'd recommend the Petzl MYO RXP.
Water Bottles: 2 wide mouth plastic water bottles with insulated covers. A small Thermos bottle is great for cold mornings.
Water Treatment: Iodine tablets (Potable Aqua or similar) or iodine crystals (Polar Pure). One bottle of Potable Aqua (enough to treat 25 liters) should be more than sufficient.
Utensils: Bring an insulated mug with a lid, a decent sized bowl, spoon, pocket knife and lighter. You are better to bring lighters from the US. TSA says you can carry them on, or pack two in a DOT approved case. Kathmandu lighters are not very good. 

Footwear
Double Climbing Boots with expedition liners. Make sure your crampons can be adjusted to fit them! The newer insulated boots like the Scarpa Phantom 6000, or the La Sportiva Spantik, are ideal for the climb — they climb well enough on the rock sections to Camp 2 and are warm enough for up high.
Approach boots. A good example is the La Sportiva Trango S, which will work on the trek and approach to Camp 1, and even up to Camp 2 if conditions warrant.
Gaiters and Yaktrax or Kahtoola Microspikes in case of snow.
Socks: Four sets of climbing socks. 

Clothing
Insulated Parka: Heavyweight insulated expedition parka with hood.
Shell Jacket: Lightweight waterproof-breathable construction with a hood.
Pants: Lightweight waterproof-breathable shell pants or bibs with full-length leg zippers (so they can be put on over boots/crampons). ALSO, insulated pants with full-length zippers for evenings and cold summit days (either down pants OR synthetic insulation full-zip pants like Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pants). Down suits will work but can be heavier and bulkier to carry in your pack.
Mid Layers: Fleece or Soft Shell layering pieces that work well with the rest of your clothing. A Soft Shell jacket and an expedition weight longjohn top will work well.
Climbing Pants: Look for construction that provides freedom of movement and/or stretch materials. Fabric should be a breathable synthetic that preferably holds up to abrasion. I'd recommend a Schoeller fabric climbing pant for general use and zippered fleece pants for the summit push.
Base Layers: 2 synthetic tops and 1 bottom. Zip neck tops are the way to go. 

Outerwear Accessories
Mittens: Fleece mittens with an over mitten. Nothing competes with a mitten for warmth when the going gets tough.
Ski Gloves: A warm insulated glove with leather palm will be worn a lot of the time.
Light Gloves: Polypropylene or fleece. Leather palms handle the fixed line better.
Leather gloves or good abrasion resistant climbing glove for the rock sections.
Stocking Hat: Wool or fleece stocking hat with ear protection.
Neck Gaiter and/or a Buff (highly recommended).
Baseball hat and Bandana. 

Personal Accessories
Eyewear: Bring good sunglasses with side protection. For contact lens wearers, ski goggles with light color lenses (for use at night) might be useful in windy conditions. The ski goggles are essential for all climbers in really stormy conditions and can serve as an emergency back up for broken or lost sunglasses.
Vision correction: Bring extra prescription eyeglasses or contact lenses if you wear them. Lens solutions are not widely available in Nepal, bring enough for the duration.
Wrist Watch: With alarm and night light. An altimeter watch is useful.
Basic First Aid: Hand sanitizer (Purell), moleskin or Compede, athletic tape, aspirin (some climbers take a baby aspirin every day up high) and/or ibuprofen/acetaminophen, Imodium, Band-Aids, antacid, insect repellant, ear plugs, and two rolls of toilet paper in quart Ziploc bags (we will have a supply at Base Camp), small towel, soap/shampoo.
Skin Care: Sunblock lotion (at least #30 protection factor — have at least one smaller tube (1 oz) that can fit in your pocket) and lip salve. Put your lip protection on a string and hang it from your neck. That way you'll use it. It also works great for your nose.
Garbage Bags: 2 or 3 large plastic bags make great liners for your pack in wet weather.
Personal Snack Food: The food is great on the trek but you might enjoy a few snacks (not more than 5 pounds) from home and also some drink mixes if you like these to add to your water bottle (let the iodine have 30 minutes contact time before adding). Summit climbers should bring some high altitude snacks they prefer for hard days, approximately 10 pounds including a drink mix like Cytomax. Include a number (10-20) of Gu, Power Gel or similar for the upper route.
MP3 Player and Books. Plan on sharing books with the Base Camp Library we establish every year.
Pee Bottle
Chemical Hand Warmers (6)


Prescription Medications:
Two regimens of antibiotic for respiratory and GI problems (azithromycin "Z-Pak")
Diamox (acetazolamide) for acclimatization (125 mg tabs recommended; enough for a week)
Sleeping pills for jet lag
Malaria Chemophrophylaxis, if needed based on travel plans (the climb/trek will not enter malaria likely zones)
Asthma medication, if any history.
For serious illness on high altitude expeditions, standard treatment protocol is:
Nifedipine (for pulmonary edema)
and Dexamethasome (for cerebral edema) in association with immediate descent.


Travel Items
Duffel Bags: We normally pack all our equipment in two large duffel bags. Make sure they are well labeled with indelible ink as well as a travel tag. The duffels go on the trek/climb with you and will be carried by porters and yaks. Expect for them to get wet and muddy, so rugged, waterproof duffels are good. Bags with wheels are nice for the airport, but the porters and yaks don't like to carry them, so don't bring wheeled bags (or at least not two of them). You will also store some travel clothes at the hotel in Kathmandu while trekking, so a small additional bag with a lock might be handy. You'll want padlocks, but for flying out of the USA, it might be better to use plastic zip ties which can be cut by TSA staff if necessary (bring extra zip ties). Tip: Bring 5 large plastic garbage bags to pack gear inside duffels to protect gear from rain.
Daypack: A smaller rucksack makes a great carry-on bag for your flight and is useful during the trek.
Travel Wallet: Some type of secure travel wallet is a must. Remember a pen for travel documents.
Passport (valid for at least 6 months after the trip ends with sufficient extra pages for visa stamps and in same name as airline ticket (or with endorsement-for women who changed name w/ marriage). It is easy to get your Nepal visa on arrival in Kathmandu at the airport... bring a passport photo. Bring a copy of the information pages and a couple of extra passport photographs. Carry these in a separate location. You'll be glad you did if you ever lose a passport.
Camera: with spare batteries, and film or memory cards, but keep it reasonable in size and weight. Consider a small USB drive to make it easy to share photos with your teammates.
Casual Clothes: For travel/meals in dining rooms. You'll want a shirt or two with a collar to wear on flights and for restaurants. A sweatshirt or light jacket might be nice in the evening. Tip: Keep your travel clothing modest, please do not wear short shorts and skimpy tops, the locals take offense.
Bathing Suit: Some of the hotels have pools (eg, in Kathmandu). Trekking Gear
Trekking Poles: Poles come in handy for balance and easing impact to your knees. Get collapsible poles that can attach to your backpack and fit into your dufflel.
Backpack: You may choose to bring a smaller "daypack" for your airline travel carry on, and this can be used on the trek if you want to carry a smaller (35 liter or so), light trekking pack. You need a pack big enough for your clothes, water, camera, food, etc during the day.
Pack Cover: Waterproof rain cover for your trekking pack.
Tip: Bring 5 large plastic garbage bags to pack gear inside duffels to protect gear from rain.
Trekking Clothes: Light hiking pants and / or hiking shorts for warm weather down low- NOT cotton. Shirts for hiking on nice days (t-shirts OK, quick-drying synthetic fabric is better.) Don't overdo your trekking clothes. A pair of shorts, long pants and a couple of shirts will do. You can hand wash them during the trek as needed.
Lightweight Approach Boots: Find a pair that fits and log some miles in them before your trip. A low-cut shoe is adequate, but some hikers will prefer more ankle support.
Sleeping Bag: Climbers will make due with their expedition bag, trekkers only can get by with a lighter bag rated to 10°F.
Sleeping Pad or Thermarest (one light one is sufficient, you will be provided a thick open cell foam "trekking mattress". 

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